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Know Your Waves

Know Your Waves

There is no surfing without waves. The sport depends on what the sea offers by way of waves. It is necessary for every surfer to know the waves. Every surfer should know how to make the best use of these waves. It is also necessary to know the dangers of each of these types of waves.

Beach Breaks

Beach breaks are waves that typically break over sand. The shape and the quality of the beach break are subject to change often. This is because the sand at the seabed is likely to change quite often. Sometimes they can stay the same way for months, but often the seabed shifts within few days changing the nature of the beach break.

Finding a channel where the waves are not breaking in a beach break is difficult and hence paddling to them is harder. It is considered to be a comparatively safer wave because the bottom is sandy and won’t hurt you much. But the beach break waves can be equally powerful. This is the best wave to learn your surfing.

Reef Breaks

These are waves that break over a rocky surface or reefs. The line up moves only depending on the size and direction of the swell as the seabed is permanent and doesn’t shift. You can paddle out through a well-defined channel next to the line-up.

Reef breaks make up most of the biggest and heaviest waves in the world. It is not that there no gentle ones. But a reef break is better avoided by a beginner. You are more likely to get hurt because you can get slammed on the rock. This could cause serious injuries to you. Many times, in the tropical locations there, can be coral on which the waves break. Coral can cut you nastily taking it many days to heal,

Point Breaks

These are waves that break along and around the land instead of directly towards it. This happens when lines of swell hit a stretch of land at oblique or perpendicular angles. These are called Point Breaks. They can break on sand or rock. These waves peel off longer than either the reef break or the beach break. Some of the world’s longest waves are the point breaks.

The length of the waves helps intermediate surfers or the advanced one to improve their surfing styles. These waves are also more predictable. These are best to test your ability to read waves. They also help in practicing linking of turns with flow and precision.

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Written by Pakaloa

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