Surfing – An Addictive Activity

Surfing – An Addictive Activity

Ask any active surfer and he will tell you how addictive surfing is

They spend hours preparing for surfing. Surfers spend a lot of money on the gear and board. Many surfers even travel across the globe trying to catch a particular wave. That is how addictive the sport is. It is becoming one of the most popular sports, with more and more people joining the bandwagon.

The reason for the addictiveness of the activity is the unexpected rewards that you get when indulging in surfing. It is almost like gambling. You don’t know when you are going to hit the jackpot and yet you cannot get away from the table. Surfing is somewhat like that. You don’t know when you will be able to catch a wave. But you are still willing to give your everything for the sport.

Surfing is not something you go expecting to come back a winner

You have to prepare for surfing on the first hand. You can’t just leave your office and go surfing. You have to carry your board with you. You need to be dressed for surfing. You have to take time off your work and excuse yourself from many other activities that may involve your loved ones. Most expert surfers will also tell you that it is better you exercise a bit before you go to catch the waves. That you need to be fit, is something that goes without saying.

The most surprising, or sometimes disappointing fact is that the sea and wind may or may not be on your side. Sometimes they may grant you everything you wished for. Sometimes you might have waited for hours, without getting any good results. This uncertainty is another thing that makes the sport so addictive – again just like gambling. The difference is that you can go sit at a table without any preparation. But, in surfing, you have to spend days practicing to surf. You have to practice your moves. You also have to know the weather in advance before you even plan to surf. After all these preparations the sea can let you down.

Scientists say that anticipation releases dopamine. You are waiting for your first wave, or the next one which you expect to bigger and better and this anticipation is what releases the dopamine. Dopamine is addictive. So is surfing. Not that surfers are complaining about the addiction.

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Written by Pakaloa

PAKALOA is a surfing and lifestyle brand. Live to Surf, Surf to Live 🏄‍♂️

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